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Bob Click to expand From there I took a power planer and just went over the beam, planing the very rough face so that it was flatter.

Large Vintage Collins & Co. Broadhead Hewing Axe / Legitimus Hartford Cast Steel

Meanwhile the Collins Co is literally just down the road and they are still getting products from them too. I agree that the Ambercrombie examples add more layers of complexity to the counterfeit scenarios.

I also found using butt logs worked best as my next operation, chopping out the slabs was hard when going through a knot. The phrase "if not earlier" is a qualifier to indicate that they might have been made earlier I don't knowso the s was not necessarily the beginning date of production.

And if so, they were being made and designated to be sold by those companies in their stores and catalogs. Starting to sound a little far fetched? By the way, I later calculated the loads and each beam should support about pounds of weight.

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Again I wonder how many points on the crown? I always figure any tree going into my house is never really waste anyway This refers to information in a thread, not a specific post.

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Note that it's talking about the s, which is a period ranging from to What I did was start at the pith of the log, measure out four inches from that, then four inches on the other side. Question addressed to anyone.

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How lupe fiasco 2018 singles dating points on the crown? This is the most intriguing to me. Before I saw the same crown stamp in the Collins book, I thought this axe, and others with that type of crown stamp, were more likely than not a fake: From the "The drawback in the Hudson Bay pattern", page 4, post I found the wavy grain of spruce to require that.

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Now I suppose that the simplest explanation could be that they aren't fakes, and Collins didn't care about some of their axes having shoddy stampings. Pictures no longer available for this listing. I don't know, but am interested in finding more. I did not want that, so I used my axe to chip out the nick even though it cut into my squared beam.

What I've found so far is a little vague. Then I went down the log, flipped the log over and did that to the remaining sides.

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This kept the hand hewn look without a tell tale chainsaw mark in the beam. Then I went to the other end of the log and did the same thing. Now having seen evidence that Collins did use this crown variation, I still have some suspicions about the alignments and overstrikes, but maybe Collins did this, too, I just haven't seen 'verified' examples such as in photos from the company museum or production line, or in books or YesteryearsTools of such composite stampings with misaligned text being done by Collins in the 20th century.

Perhaps they provided samples to the counterfeiter. No mention of Collins in the above reference.

At first the learning curve was a touch long, maybe two hours or so, but by the end I was producing a beam in an hour. What I wrote still stands, exactly as written, and I thought that it was sufficient without further elaboration, but I guess I was wrong.

None of that makes any sense! If a job is just looked at with drudgery it may not be worth doing time wise, but I don't feel that way at all. Comparison to OP axe: It goes to the thread that includes references to the Collins pattern being used for Abercrombie and Fitch's Hudson Bay axes, which date back to the s as in tens or teens, just like s means nineteen-twenties.

Aug 28, grafton said: Too bad we can't see the Collins mark: Taking a level I made two plumb lines on the face of the log.

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However when you add the other mark from a company you have something else to go on. If they are counterfeit then both of those companies knew that they were selling counterfeit goods in their stores and catalogs There was significant waste per log, but such as it is.

There is absolutely no variation in those markings that I have seen in terms of shape, size or shoddiness.

Then I measure up 4 inches from the pith, and down from the pith and using a square, marked lines there.

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It was not that bad. How do we know that a "6" is missing? In that way I had a 8x8 square on the end of the log. That is pretty rugged for an hour of my time and using simple tools.

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When I thought that type of crown stamp was not used by Collins, the simplest explanation seemed to be that a dishonest middleman somewhere was sourcing them cheaper from a shady manufacturer.

Now working on each side to slab, I took my chainsaw and cut down to the line, being careful not to go too far every 8 inches or so. This evidently was confusing, so I elaborated with this explanation: But I still do not see mention of the No mark in this link.

Aug 28, rjdankert said: Seller states "Collins Legitimus "No.

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That is a great gauge on whether or not it is worth it. Then I used a chalk line and connected each end so I knew what to slab off. A few times my chainsaw went too deep and showed a nick.

That is the correct link.